Saturday, August 25, 2012

Costuming in "The Tudors": Catherine Howard

So I have now reached the point when these posts start affecting my dreams. It took long enough.

This morning I dreamt that I was woken by a call from my boss asking me if I ever planned on going to work and when I looked at the clock, it was 13:56. I don't use 24 hour time so this struck the me having the dream as odd. The me in the dream saw nothing strange here and tried to leave for work but when I went outside, I was in the London suburbs. Whoops.

Realizing my mistake, I ran towards the nearest tube station to get to the airport and was stopped on the platform and taken into the station again by a woman who said that I was under arrest for trying to overthrow the monarchy. How did I do this, you ask? Apparently in my dream touching this one statue was such serious business that it was considered treason. Being an American, they decided to convict me of trying to overthrow the monarchy instead because it was equivalent (but I am no Guy Fawkes). I told them I would leave the country quietly and presented my plane ticket to them (which I had also missed and was apparently early that morning). The alternative was that they would take me to the Tower of London and cut off my head. The woman said she would consider letting me just leave but that I would never be able to return and before she decided I would go through the Tower. The Tower had been turned into some amusement thing like the London Dungeon and when the ride/show was over, I saw an open doorway and booked it, thinking the woman never took my information down and that I would probably be able to keep my head and come back to London again.

So the point of all of that was that I clearly need to write about Catherine Howard.

How do I begin to explain Catherine Howard? Catherine Howard is flawless. I hear her hair is insured for £10,000. I hear she poses for portraits . . . in Milan! Her favorite book is one with pictures.

If you don't get my highly intellectual reference, Catherine Howard is pretty much the popular girl in school and being that she's only 17, she really is at that point in life. She's notably dumb but sweet and doesn't really have an ounce of foresight or desire to do anything productive. I don't like her as a character but I have to admit that she made for interesting television.

Her style? Well, when she bothers to wear clothes she's a teenager with a queen's bank account. She wears a lot of floral patterns in mostly pastel, shiny fabrics. I'm not necessarily saying her clothes are unsophisticated (although they are on occasion); she has a lot of dresses I could actually see Anne Boleyn or Jane Seymour wearing. However, she does look like she is playing dress up whenever she is in something that is more sophisticated.

And in spite of the fact that Henry doesn't age much, she really looks like his daughter not his wife. It's creepy.

I would also like to just add as a side note, that in season four a lot of Anne Boleyn outfits end up getting used on side characters and it is odd, the main one being that the dress Jane Boleyn wears the whole season is Anne's Henry dress. Speculations!  I guess the budget was starting to get strained (but it actually doesn't seem too ridiculous that she may have gotten it after Anne died).

Anyway, enough nonsense.


Season 3, Episode 8


"I'm surprised someone taught her to count."

When we are first introduced to Catherine she is pretty shabby looking. The dowager duchesses house that Sir Bryan pulled her out of really made her look like she was in an orphanage or a brothel and the outfit doesn't really do anything to dispel this idea. There are three different, cheap looking fabrics (possibly four if you look at that sleeve) and her skirt is too short. There is nothing classy about what she is wearing which is why when Brandon says that she looks fit for a king, he means that she looks fit for Henry. Problem is, this is her interior on the outside. She needs to not look so common if he is to notice her in the first place . . .


I feel like I have been cheated out of a scene where Sir Bryan, the Duke of Suffolk, and the Earl of Hertford try to figure out how to do a makeover. Anyway, this is where Henry and Catherine meet and she shoves his ring up her dress. Kind of makes you miss Anne Boleyn's subtly.

Presumably, Catherine arrived with nothing so this is what they provide her with. Catherine wears ridiculous amounts of blue throughout the show, especially light blues like this (or light turquoise, the lighting on this show can be difficult). This dress sets that standard. Also the embroidery pattern which is almost floral looking. Also, tiny crown. Foreshadowing.


Henry gives her a gift and so she returns the favor with her body as she will return all favors.

This must be a new casual dress. It's brown or red-brown with the drooping sleeves and gold detail. You never see her in brown again and you never see her in this dress either. It's kind of a transition dress. Like her first dress it's not a remarkable color with kind of a bland fabric in front but it is still definitely a lady's dress. She's not a ragamuffin but she's not a queen.


Henry goes out riding with Catherine to Nonsuch Palace (which is the funniest name ever by the way and can easily turn into a "Who's on first" bit. "Did you go to Hampton Court this weekend?" "No, we went to Nonsuch Palace." "Well, then where DID you go?"). I don't know why this scene happens except to cut up Cromwell's death speech with a joke.

Catherine has on a riding habit that actually greatly resembles something Mary Tudor wore in this same episode. Mary wore her outfit when she was getting an offer of courtship. Parallel? Also, red is Catherine's dubious happy color. Generally there is joy in these outfits but with some other layer of something not quite right. This scene is kind of an exception unless you are thinking about how perhaps, this palace was for Jane or that winning the king's favor is actually a bad idea. In a second her clothes are about to get a lot more expensive looking.


Season 4, Episode 1


Yes, the quality of my screenshots has improved because the quality of my videos has improved. Catherine Howard is first introduced as Henry's wife. Everything about her introduction is hilariously incorrect.

Catherine doesn't get a wedding dress so this is the closest we get. Maybe this actually was her wedding dress. Catherine wears pale yellow on occasions so maybe a pattern will appear as I go on because I didn't notice anything in particular right away. Her crown is intensely tall though and one thing that is factual is that Henry spoiled the crap out of her. I also can't stop thinking that the design on her dress resembles a fleur-de-lys which is really appropriate since in the next scene she decides that she and her ladies must dress in the latest French fashions.


With most of the queens there is a scene where they talk to their ladies for the first time (Anne of Cleves is an exception). Anne Boleyn set down specific strict rules, Jane asked them all to be modest and to serve herself and the king, and Catherine Howard . . . asks them to dress in French fashions like her. She then hears from an old friend who has fallen on misfortune and . . . doesn't know whether she will help her or not.

Catherine does wear puffed sleeves fairly regularly but this is the only dress she has with sleeves of this kind. She is in a queen outfit but it is clear that she is just playing queen. The whole speech to the ladies reads like a six-year-old playing with her friends. The crown is so stereotypical that it looks like what the Burger King paper crown is based off of and she never wears in again. This is a game to her. Also, I said red is kind of a dubious happy color. She is happy but the letter from her friend puts a damper on the mood for a second.


Catherine meets Mary Tudor. It goes very badly. Then her friend Joan shows up without invitation and asks for a position, sitting in the same throne as in the last scene.

I had talked a bit about this scene in the Mary Tudor post and about how Mary is dressed very mature and seriously with a simple dress that just has white beads around the neck and Catherine is in a dress that is sparkly and detailed all over and in one of her many blues. The funny thing is, their dresses have the same shape and sleeves which only serves to show how different they really are.


Catherine meets Thomas Culpeper and heard about some of the things Henry has given her.

This is the same blue dress from when Catherine and Henry first meet. Although this first meeting is not as sexual as the other one, the dress calls one back to that scene and it is hard not to notice Culpeper's attraction to her even if she seems clueless about it. It's also notable that the scene that follows involves Catherine putting on a lewd puppet show for Henry and then sex.


Catherine meets Edward and Elizabeth which goes a lot better than when she met Mary. Meeting Edward goes over fine because he's a three year old and Elizabeth acts formally but less bitter than Mary. Elizabeth, like her mother, can be difficult to read.

I'm pretty sure the outside of this dress is a really light blue, unsurprisingly, and she still has that fan from last scene. I think she's still playing a lady. Hence the headdress. Also, now that I see this outfit, it is clear to me that when Catherine met Mary she was trying hard to be her friend which was why she was wearing a more standard shaped dress without any of the silly accessories here like the headpiece and the fan. She wants to be a queen to these children but she thought she might find a friend in Mary.


They go to Berkshire for Catherine's first trip as queen. Catherine spends the whole scene dancing. Culpeper watches her like he warned her that men would.

Another blue dress (I know from another scene). There's more too. That's all.


Henry and his men find Catherine and her ladies playing in the mud, calling back to a scene with a bunch of men in water before. All the ladies are trying to cover themselves up but Catherine is unashamed.

She's a child. Period.


Season 4, Episode 2


For something new and different we open on Catherine dancing in a blue dress. It's the dress she met Mary in but I don't think there's anything interesting about that here.


*dreamy* "I am the queeeen of England!"

Catherine and her ladies watch the snow on Christmas and she is presented with her gifts from the king. He gives her more outside, two horses, that were a gifts from Anne of Cleves, a fact which makes her face fall instantly.

Red is her dubious happiness color. She's happy for the gifts of course but obviously the mention of Henry's ex makes her nervous.


The Christmas party. I pretty much said everything about this dress in the Anne of Cleves post so I will just point out the highlights. Anne is in a mature dress, Catherine is really, really not (huge puffed sleeves, flower detail, giant sparkles). I should also point out that while usually when characters wear red on Christmas this is an exception to any other patterns with their clothes, here it goes along with the rule. Catherine is happy and a little tipsy but unsure about meeting Anne. After meeting her, she gets a bit happier again and better about the situation.


Catherine confronts Mary about her being rude to her. I talked a bit about this scene too but there is more to Catherine's outfit. Remember how I said Catherine was trying to be a queen to Edward and Elizabeth but a friend to Mary which was why she met them at different times and in different clothes? She's got her queen suit on now for Mary (everything but the friendly fan). She has given up on the idea of being her friend and now uses her authority to hurt her.


Culpeper shows Catherine a book to be dedicated to her and she laughs at the pictures in another blue dress. This headpiece amuses the hell out of me because it makes the top of her head look so small i.e. it makes her look dumb.


Catherine is worried about Henry after having not seen him for ten days. She doesn't know that he is sick so she thinks he has taken a mistress. Culpeper does nothing to convince her otherwise. Then Joan tells her that Culpeper is in love with her and she doesn't know what to make of this.

This is Catherine's nervous dress. She wears it whenever she thinks her world is falling apart (but ironically not when it does). It's still shiny and has got blue and some kind of gold or bronze in it like a lot of her clothes but something about it reads as darker colored than her usual dress or busy somehow.


Catherine plays cards with Lady Rochford while she tells her that she could help her have an affair with Culpepper so no one would know.

A dark blue gown and this spiky star headband. She looks like the mistress of the night and the scenes with this outfit seems to capitalize on the night. Culpepper enters a room where she is bathed in moonlight, looking at the sky as Henry is shown doing the same from his sick bed. This outfit was more about a theme than about character or plot.


Season 4, Episode 3


Catherine gets dance instructions from a FABULOUS instructor who is trying to refine her style.

Catherine's first time in purple. The dress is clearly designed for dance with its large but loose skirt and sleeves.


Catherine has dinner with Henry and finally hears that he was sick. He gives her a large blue gem.

In the same way that Catherine had worn this dress to meet Mary, expecting a friend but getting an enemy, she wears this dress expecting to hear a lame excuse and feel okay about what she did with Culpeper and instead finds that he was sick and she feels bad. Both meetings leave her quite cold.


I missed a scene where Catherine and Culpepper meet and she is in a gold-ish dress.
Here Catherine interrupts one of Henry's meetings to tell him that she's pregnant.

She's in purple again because she is really feeling like a queen to think that she may be carrying the king's child. She's also got big shoulders like at the Christmas party to show her child-like excitement.


Catherine and Henry take a walk and talk about a trip they will be taking soon (the trip to the North, I think) and Catherine admits that she was wrong about the pregnancy.

Another blue although this time with a hat and cape for walking outside.

Jeez, Catherine. Give me more to work off here.


Catherine is reading the book dedicated to her when Henry comes in and tells her they will be traveling in two days and that Mary will be coming with them. She's obviously not happy.

After that whole, "not pregnant" thing Catherine is back to just playing queen like she was in the beginning of the season. She is in her dubious happiness color while reading the book dedicated to her and possibly thinking about Culpepper but the news that Mary will be coming with them on their trip that she was so excited about dampens her mood.


Catherine's riding outfit for their trip to the north. While all the people are cheering for the king and Mary, Catherine is watching Culpepper when they arrive.

MORE BLUE. Although note how much richer this blue is than the usual light or pastel shades? I think her new clothes are supposed to look more mature for her trip and possibly to make her stick out more. As I pointed out in the Mary Tudor post, Mary would dwarf her anyway because people already like her.


Catherine's first church outfit is begging for attention so much. WAIT A MINUTE. It just clicked with me! Catherine is in so much blue because she is dressed like the sky in these moments. Here her collar looks like the sun and her dress is the brighter blue with what almost looks like a star pattern on it. She's caught between her marriage by day and her affair by night. Less symbolically, she is trying to stick out and be the one people want to see.

In her second church outfit she is in a muted purple-pink and a dark robe, actually looking less bright than Mary who is in dark red and gold. By that point she has realized who the people want to see.


Season 4, Episode 4


Catherine goes to see Henry at night as he requested but his mind is elsewhere on political matters. She tries to convince him that he must not want to see her so he proves her wrong. She is not into it.

I'm not sure this means much except when she last waited for Culpeper she was in a green gown with a lot of detail. This gown is kind of plain by comparison.


Catherine goes out walking with her ladies and sees Francis Dereham, her former lover, and then greets him in her chambers. He says he is seeking employment and when she refuses to offer him any, he blackmails her.

The meeting Henry dress, the meeting Culpepper dress, and now the meeting Dereham dress. See the pattern. Also note how these are all men she has slept with or will sleep with and the mood goes from sexual, to under the surface attraction, to using her sexual experience against her.


Over dinner, Catherine tells Henry about her new secretary, Dereham, and kind of gets caught by Brandon for lingering on Culpeper to long but he doesn't really acknowledge it.

This was the dress and crown Catherine wore when she was presented as the queen to the court. The same thing happens over this dinner but her attitude is totally different. Once happy to be queen and wanting to dance and now quiet and only thinking of her lover.


"I have a store of other lovers besides you now GET OUT."

Catherine is in her nervous dress as she bites her nails and then has to tell Culpeper about Francis Dereham even though he already knows. Then when he judges her for it, she flips out at him.


At dinner with her crew, Dereham treats her badly and makes everyone in the room feel awkward so she leaves.

Catherine wore this dress once before but I forgot to screencap it. The scene when she last wore this she was talking nervously about how it was a full moon and they will all act like lunatics and then asked to see Culpeper. Here she is nervous again so this is another nervous dress, I guess. Plus, I think we found the lunatic she was talking about.


Catherine worriedly insists that she is at her majesty's command and he asks her if she is with child and she says no. She then wears this dress to dinner as Dereham heckles her more.

Wow, um, anyone kind of missing the blue? She's been in this pale yellow or other sad shades for a while now. This dress is really similar to the last one. It's like all her enthusiasm is gone and the dresses just kind of blend into her coloring.


Catherine sees Culpepper again after the fight they had. This green, I think it's green, gown is her Culpeper gown. She doesn't have a Culpepper dress because she only meets him at night.


The last dress in this episode that I couldn't get a good picture of for the life of me was a black dress with gold detail that she wore in church while the preacher was talking about how Catherine is such a perfect companion. The last moment of the episode shows someone putting a letter on Henry's chair that clearly tells off all of Catherine's sins. This is obvious because even in church, Catherine is never in black. This is the end for her.


Season 4, Episode 5


Catherine's chambers are interrupted by guards who tell her that she is confined to her apartments with only Lady Rochford to attend to her but they will not tell her why. Later she finds out that Dereham has been taken to the Tower.

This dress looks like a lot of her usual dresses from before all the problems in the north. It's got the light blue and the more muted bronze shade only this is kind of the opposite dress of the one Catherine wears when she challenges Mary or even like matte versions of the colors you find in her nervous dress. She did not see this coming by any means but it is notable how the blue is on the inside and the muted color is on the outside. The problems have surfaced.


Catherine finally hears about what they know and runs out of her chambers to Henry to beg him for forgiveness. He ignores her. She is then arrested in this dress. (Fact: I have been in the room where this scene supposedly happened in real life and it didn't look quite like this. Henry apparently locked the door on her instead of just walking away and her ghost still haunts the place, screaming for mercy.)

She's wearing what she was wearing the last time she was notably disgraced, when her replies to Dereham's rudeness towards her ended up leading to this point.


Catherine dances in her prison in her undergarments. The main reason I bring this scene up is because it calls back to both the scene in episode one when she is playing in the mud in her underwear and the scene in episode three when she is learning how to dance like a lady. While she had laughed at the dance instructor, here she now performs the dances with the grace she always lacked as she must grow up and accept her fate. She doesn't throw mud in her underwear like a child but dances like the lady she should have been.


Catherine's death dress is black like the dress when her fate is sealed in a letter. Although she does not wear black, the detail in the dress really makes it look like her dress although a lot more plainly than her usual clothes. In fact, it is more like the dress she first appeared in than anything she wears as queen. This is her dress, not the ghost of Jane Seymour's.

Also, it is hard not to compare this dress to how Anne Boleyn dressed to die. Anne went out like a queen with a cape and nice details recently added to the dress she was arrested in and jewels and she gave a speech about how she accepts her fate and asks that everyone praise the king. Catherine went out like herself, the original person she arrived as without title and, unknowingly until she was being taken to the block, in mourning for her dead lover. She dies with regret and numb shock.

Also, I have to point out how before she gives her final speech she looks up into the sky and sees the moon during the day. Theme finding its way home.


That was depressing. Being a dumb skank is not something to kill someone for.


Anyway, my next post will be my last on "Tudors" costumes as I talk about Catherine Parr, a less sad fate but kind of a less interesting figure aside from the whole heresy thing.

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