Costuming in "The Tudors": Mary Tudor

Yes. I am putting off Anne Boleyn.

Why? Well, the bitch has more clothes than anyone requiring me to drive her into two separate posts and they are also probably the most fabulous.

However, that ignores the fact that I wanted to do Mary Tudor and there is no particularly good time to do a post on her expect simply after her mother. Mary is the female character that is in the show for the absolute longest from season one to four although she spends most of season one as a child and there is no real need to talk about a child's clothing especially when she is in the show so sparingly then. However, when she gets old enough to pick out her own clothes, that is when you can see the patterns forming.

Mary likes dark or muted colors mostly with a few exceptions, especially black and red which are the colors she is overwhelming adorned in throughout most of the show. She also loves gigantic crosses on her necklaces. What is she trying to say here?

"My life is hell and my religion is important and one day these things will combine into a terrible shitstorm."

I'm joking (somewhat). Honestly, Mary is one of my most consistent favorite characters on the show in spite of the knowledge of what she ends up going on to do and my particular hatred for religious fanatics. I just love how she refuses to take crap from anyone and always drives the people she hates insane with her calm way of bringing them down. Also, until the last few episodes when she was hating on Catherine Parr for her literature, she was very good at judging people for their merits and not some of the silly things other characters were harping on. She was more, "Well, I dislike Catherine Howard because she is an idiot. I'm not going to hurt her or anything. I would just like to avoid her because she is annoying."

One last thing before I start: I am not doing Elizabeth and I have a very simple reason why. Elizabeth is on the show so sparingly when she is older that there are probably no particularly notable patterns in her clothing at all except for her interest in neck ruffs. They show that. Analysis done.

Back to Mary.

Click to enlarge the pictures.


Season 2

Mary's clothing in season two is very repetitive and not particularly noteworthy because it is trying to convey the same message over and over. The black shows that she is in mourning over her mother's death. It also has this great effect of making her look more like a nun than the young woman of marriageable age that she is. This is also shown with the giant cross necklaces that are her own quiet rebellion against the new religion that has enabled her father's divorce. While, obviously, the Church of England is still Christian, these necklaces show a devotedness that others can equate with her strict Catholicism that she maintains. It is also of note that her clothing is very plain and common, showing her status. Although she is the daughter of the king, she has essentially been disowned and must work as something of a lady-in-waiting to the new queen Anne.

Season 3, Episode 1

When we are first introduced to Mary in season three, she is more hopeful for the new order of Jane Seymour than she had been for the previous marriage which had broken her parent's marriage. Part of this hope comes from the fact that Jane has said that she wants to restore her to the line of succession.

Her hopes are stifled when Sir Francis Bryan comes in and gives her a contract that he pretty much tells her she must sign under threat of death saying that she and her parent's marriage is illegitimate and she must renounce the Roman Catholic church. Then he threatens her.

While her clothing doesn't seem to have changed too much since the previous season, there is actually a lot being said with this outfit. She is still in dark colors showing her troubled state, although the mourning period for her mother is probably over, but the actual quality of her clothes has changed significantly. The clothes and headdresses she wore in season two were very common and unadorned, like something any commoner would wear and not the daughter of the king. These clothes have tons more detail, the headdress has gold detailing and the cross necklace she is wearing has gotten more subtle but more expensive looking. Also note the coat which is not significant in itself but does call back to her mother Catherine of Aragon who wore coats like this almost all the time. This is a new phase in her life where she will not be suppressed as she had been under the reign of Anne Boleyn but everything is nowhere near alright.

 In a meeting with the ambassador to discuss the contract, the gravity of the situation finally dawns on Mary that she must sign even though she will not truly denounce her faith.

This outfit is obviously similar to the last one except instead of her mother's coat, she is wearing a foreign-looking headdress like those of her mother's. She is thinking of her in this moment, knowing that she does not truly believe what she is signing. This is also that same thing her mother would do: talking with foreign ambassadors, emphasize your own foreignness.

When Mary officially meets Jane in the show she is wearing the same dress from the previous scene without the headdress. She is still going through the motions here, glumly doing what she must. Jane is very nice to her however and it is clear that she is truly grateful. Then Henry comes in and gives her some money and asks that she call on him if she needs help and call him "father." In a moment it seems that she has forgotten what she must do to get to this point because she is so grateful for where she now is.

Season 3, Episode 2

Jane arranges for Mary to make her return to court as the king's daughter. Jane tells her about the houses she will receive and she thanks her. This is also the "Mary is an ignorant innocent" scene where Sir Francis asks her if she has heard of a new court game called "cunnilingus" and although she doesn't know what that means, she picks up on the fact that he is making fun of her right away and leaves.

Mary is in a color other than black for the first time and without any crosses. Green actually becomes something of her "court color". She is trying her hardest to give the right impression. It could also mean that her mind is less burdened right now and even when someone tries to make fun of her she still handles it smoothly as if she fits right in. Also, she is wearing a crown. Her royalty is now acknowledged.

Season 3, Episode 3

It's Christmastime so Mary is in her festive red. Christmas dresses are actually kind of a big thing with this show and this time is no different. Mary really does seem to favor dresses with this same basic shape as after season two she is only seen veering away from this square-neck, larger skirt shape sparingly. Her dress in the second shot actually looks like an interesting medium between Jane's and Elizabeth's both in color and style. It is not as adorned as Jane's but it is more interesting and mature than Elizabeth's and it is a red in between the two. Her flower crown is in between too. Jane is wearing holly and Elizabeth has prominent white flowers while Mary has alternating red and white. When Henry says, "My family", the unity is clear in their clothes. Also, she has on cross earrings. She may be trying to hide her true religion but gosh darn-it, they're all Christians here and she will acknowledge the Lord's day even if she is being subtle.

 

Season 3, Episode 4

Take a good look because you won't see Mary in a color this light very often but when you do there is a clear meaning to it: it is her marriage color. Mary is only in colors like this when potential husbands are involved, signifying her availability. 

In this scene she is talking to the ambassador about a prince of Portugal who has made an offer for her hand.  I think I took this particular screenshot at the point when she asked if he was good-looking. Also, it may be kind of odd to have her wearing a cross during this discussion but in the scene right before this one the ambassador was having the same conversation with Henry and Jane and Henry had asked if he was virtuous as Mary is very spiritual and the ambassador said he would treat her like a nun. Then Henry joked that they might have trouble producing heirs. She's as innocent as can be here (which should be a sign that this marriage won't happen).

Season 3, Episode 5

 Mary is back in mourning clothes but this time for Jane Seymour. While standing over Edward's crib she says that he will know his mother as she will share her kindness with him. She also says that she intends to move to the countryside with Elizabeth so they can look after each other.

Her mourning clothes have gotten much more expensive with her station change, of course. Also, here she is in full on "good Christian mood" with her deeds so, of course, we are back to nun touches of a veil and large cross.

Same clothes but with her outdoor coat. She learns that her father is still in a deep depression and that there is no news on her potential marriage which causes her to wonder if she will ever get married. Now her mourning for Jane is cloaked in her own troubles although that is a lovely coat even if it carries so many problems.

Season 3, Episode 6

 Although she is out of mourning, she is still in dark colors. Red, when not Christmas, is pretty much her "Bloody Mary" color. After a short talk about her marriage falling through because of who her father's next bride might be, she talks about how Cromwell needs to be killed for poisoning the king's mind with the underlying idea of how the Catholics are being persecuted for their rebellion. Red is her "queen color" that shows moments when her crazy reputation of the future shines through all else.

Season 3, Episode 7

 "So he is marrying a Lutheran heretic and I am marrying no one!"

I think that quote sums up this scene. She's in her marriage color although she's saying some "Bloody Mary" things about wanting Anne is drown on her way there. I guess here what she says about her own marriage is more important than her hatred for Lutherans in this scene. She says that she would rather become a nun than marry a Lutheran herself which will become amusing in the next episode.

 Mary wears her court dress to meet Anne of Cleves for the first time with all the enthusiasm you would expect (that is to say, none but she is still dignified about it). She eyes her judgmentally but generally lets herself blend into the court scene like she did the last time she wore this dress.

Season 3, Episode 8

 This is definitely the best episode for Mary's ongoing subplot. Anne of Cleves tells Mary that her hot cousin, Philip of Bavaria, wants to court her. She is indifferent since he is a Lutheran and just the last episode she was saying she would rather join a convert than marry a Lutheran but she says that he may come if he pleases.

This outfit is so different from everything Mary wears during the show and she never wears it again. I honestly don't even know how to explain it. Well, she's in "Bloody Mary" red which is clear from her hatred of Lutherans and how she is not comfortable just sitting next to Anne in spite of the fact that Anne is really nice. Her dress looks almost like armor to me, all layered and buttoned up to the throat. It's also odd to see a hat indoors. Maybe she rode there and this is one of her riding habits and she felt no need to respectfully remove her hat when coming inside. I'm not sure. Either way, this is a defensive, protective look.

 Mary goes to court and bumps into Duke Philip unprepared and informally. The last time she wore this dress it was because a marriage fell through so how interesting than she is wearing it when a new prospect arrives. It's also clear that he is meeting her unprepared because it doesn't seem natural for her to be in her "Bloody Mary" color when meeting a suitor (unless he is a dirty heretic, I guess). 

In spite of her previous disinterest, she's a little interested.

 Light color = marriage color. Although she was defensive about him being a Lutheran, her mind is now open to the idea although at first she insists to Anne that they have nothing in common. Then she hides while Anne and Philip talk about her and finds out that he is smitten with her and thinks she is a beauty and radiates strength like her mother.

Even if you think she is a boat of crazy (and she is), it is hard not to like her in this episode.

 Mary gets to meet Philip again and while dancing with him, he claims she stepped on his toe so he could pull her into another room and kiss her. Smooth dude.

This is the closest Mary could get to a "come and get it" dress. It's shiny and in her court green with jewels all over the bodice and her hair is free and in bigger curls than it ever was or will be. She is trying her damnedest to be appealing to a man. This is not comfortable territory for her however, neither trying to hook a man nor being flashy in any way, so she has protection in the form of a large and ornate cross.

 Anne tells Mary that Henry sent Philip away and that she is so sorry. Mary says that it is of little matter because their religious differences meant she never would have married him anyway but still ends up in tears when she leaves the room.

She's in a lighter color although here I think it is both for her marriage prospects and her general happiness that she felt with Philip. Of course, that all comes crashing down in this scene and I think that is why the high collar is calling back to the red dress in this episode. She is using religion as her defense although this time it is to try to hide the fact that she truly is sad that he is gone. The crown is actually the same one from the previous scene like she is carrying that token of joy with her. Fittingly, she never wears this dress again either.

Season 4, Episode 1

This is what Mary is wearing when she meets Catherine Howard. Catherine tries hard to be friendly but Mary has no use for this silly little girl and is very stern and dismissive, seemingly disgusted when Catherine calls her her stepdaughter.

I think the styling here was meant to emphasize the age difference between her and Howard more than anything. Mary is older than her by somewhere between 3-6 years or so and Catherine is still a teenager. Mary's hair is tightly pulled back, she has on more adornment than usual and she is wearing this somber red, all things that contrast with how Catherine is dressed in this scene (light, floral patterns, loose hair). Mary is trying to show power and maturity so that she can intimidate Catherine into respecting her authority.

Season 4, Episode 2

Another Christmas dress. Mary has three of these throughout the show: two in red and one in green. She also has one bad Christmas. Can you guess which one it is?  She enters, ignores Catherine completely (who IS wearing red), and only talks to her father. Then she talks to the ambassador about how she hates Catherine and that her father should have never divorced Anne of Cleves. 

It's pretty clear that she doesn't want to be here. That dark green is without any joy and is even darker and more plain than her usual green-hued court dress. It's also interesting how she isn't wearing a necklace or any crosses whatsoever and is wearing a headdress that doesn't really stand out or say "Christmas" like the floral headdress the other women are wearing. She's pretty much saying, "There. I put on a dress and showed up. Now let me leave." I know those events.

Catherine Howard shows up at Mary's room to ask why Mary won't show her respect but will respect Anne of Cleves. Mary tells her that Anne is a respectful and kind person and Howard is a frivolous twat. Then she pretty much tells her that the only reason her father married her was because she's fertile and that the king will tire of her. Zing! However, then Catherine uses what power she has to dismiss two of Mary's three maids and tells her that Mary is jealous of her because she is not married. Mary holds her strong face for the most part but when the ambassador shows up later to tell her to just give in, Mary refuses and breaks down crying. The marriage thing really is her Achilles heel and Howard, being a mean girl, knew how to exploit it.

The fact that she is wearing the same dress from the Christmas party is proof that she didn't even bother to be festive. She was just wearing one of her regular outfits. This is especially clear from the fact that she has on far more notable jewelry in this scene than she did at the party. She really gave no fucks about that party because she is more dressed up to sit at home and read her Bible. This outfit and decoration is also very similar to what she wore when she first met Catherine although that was a battle she won. Here, she has better comebacks but ultimately, Catherine has the power of the bitch queen and the mean girl on her side. Bloody Mary has been reduced to the girl crying in the bathroom.

Season 4, Episode 3

Mary hears from the ambassador (yes, I still don't know his actual name) that Henry is going to be going to the North and that Catherine is thought to be pregnant. Then he tells her that because Jane Seymour was never crowned, some believe that she is actually the next in line over Prince Edward.

I'm not sure why she is still in the green dress. At this point I think it might just be the only thing she brought with her to court because I'm not seeing any reasoning here.

This is Mary's traveling outfit for when she goes to the North with her father and Catherine. She was invited to go with them because she is very popular there.

With what she has just learned about the line of succession and the fact that she is going somewhere because the people like her, she is on top right now. She wears new clothes the entire time she is there, starting with this muted grey and blue. In this same scene, Catherine is wearing blue but a really bright blue and yet everyone is looking at Mary. The dress has a pattern, which is different for her, as does the hat. She is trying to look nice and royal but she would never do so in the bright colors Catherine sports.

At church she has on another new outfit with a ton of shine and pattern of roses even if it is still fairly grey in color, and a pretty legit crown. Again, she is contrasted with Catherine who is making a spectacle of herself for the people. Mary doesn't need to do this because she is already comfortable with them and is more comfortable with herself in fine, but not showy attire.

Season 4, Episode 4

Previously in this episode, Mary had entered a room to a thunderous applause and then gave a prayer that went over very well with the people all while Catherine was still sleeping but she did catch the end enough to see that she is not the one these people care about. After this, Catherine's outfits for meeting the people become darker than Mary's allowing Mary to dwarf her even in her own dark colors.

Here Mary has on red velvet, lined in gold, making up for the fact that she doesn't get to wear the gold crown which is the only notable thing about Catherine's look here. She knows that she is more like the queen here than Catherine. Also, Catherine of Aragon-esque coat here. Why? Because she is calling on that strength in talking to the people that her mother possessed so aptly.

Season 4, Episode 5

The ambassador comes to see Mary (who I finally now know is named Eustace Chapuys; that took me way longer than it should have) and tells her that Catherine Howard has been confined to her apartments because of some rumored infidelities. He says it's sad because her family is Catholic and she says it doesn't matter because she was never a good Catholic and a terrible queen.

She's still riding high from her trip to the North as she is wearing the same dress she had on in church there but with more daytime jewels. Also, Bloody Mary strikes again although here she is still placing quality in a person over religion, thankfully.

Season 4, Episode 6

Mary tells Elizabeth that they are both restored to the line of succession after Edward. Elizabeth isn't as enthused but Mary says that it's good because it means their father loves them. Elizabeth points out that she may be queen one day and she says she may be too. This is also the scene when Elizabeth swears she will never marry.

She's dressed like a queen in the stereotypical sense. The collar calls back to similar collars on dresses worn by Anne Boleyn and Jane Seymour when they were queens. She is fitting into her new potential role more comfortably than Elizabeth. Also, same usual blacks and reds for her.

 About time for another Christmas dress! She appears to be mostly running the show here while her father is busy. She's also crazy happy after everything that has just happened: line of succession, Howard's dead, and her father hasn't married a new stepmother yet. She sits at her father's right hand with no silly teenager above her.

This dress is very youthful, especially compared with the last scene. It like she has gotten all her energy back. It's got shine and design and her hair is free. This is pure joy.

Mary meets with Eustace and he says that there is a law now that requires women who the king may marry to disclose sexual misconduct and comments that the court is full of loose women and who would want to marry a king who divorces or beheads his wives.

It was stated that Mary had been unwell so this outfit may be the result of putting a coat on over a nightgown. Although it is notable that they are discussing marriage and virtue. It's funny how he says court is full of loose women when the only pure one is, well, the king's daughter so he can't marry her. Hence, Mary is in white. She's pure and marriageable but they are discussing her 50 year old father's future marriage and not hers.

At dinner with her father and his men. This is the same dress as the one she wore in church up North. She's still feeling good about life.


Season 4, Episode 7

I missed a couple of outfits in episode 7 but they weren't very notable. She was wearing a new red and gold dress at the wedding of Henry and Catherine Parr to show that she is pleased with this new match and was wearing her Christmas dress to meet with a Spanish dude where she showed off her Spanish skills. She also wore a grey dress of sadness when saying goodbye to her father before he went off to fight in France.

Here she is meeting Catherine Parr to show her some Bible translations she did and dedicated to her thinking that Parr is a Catholic like she is. Weirdly enough this is the same dress she wore when meeting Catherine Howard except with a cross, which seems really odd when her attitudes toward them are so different. AT FIRST. Mary seems to catch on quickly that Parr might not actually be the Catholic she thinks and she gets stiff during the meeting. Bad foreshadowing.

Mary begs Eustace not to leave and he says she will be fine with Queen Catherine. She flips out about how Catherine is a heretic and then blames herself for not being born a boy because if she had, she believes the Church of England never would have happened. Then she swears to BURN ALL THE HERETICS to make England faithful again when she is queen.

This is her official Bloody Mary dress. It's fancier than her other red dresses and, of course, she has a gold crown and a cross necklace. This is the complete image of what she will become as queen.

Season 4, Episode 9

She hears from Sir Richard that Eustace has died shortly after returning to Spain and she breaks down, feeling abandoned. Richard insists that she still has friends of the faith including himself and she says that her brother is being brought up a heretic and she wants to stop it.

That's it. She's red forever now. Red and gold. Red for blood and gold for her future as queen.

And that describes the rest of the scenes with her in them with one little exception:

Season 4, Episode 10

In Henry's vision of his first three wives and children, Mary is dressed more like how she used to: a black dress, her symbol of mourning and sadness which is appropriate mainly because Catherine is saying that Mary should be married by now and that their marriage was always legitimate. And because she is a vision, I guess, she has on a veil to symbolize her piety like Catherine's. In fact, if you haven't been noticing the parallels between the way she dresses and the way her mother dressed through the whole thing, this episode is here to make it clear for you. I think the only thing that seems out of place about this scene is the fact that she isn't wearing a cross (unless there is one on the necklace).


So there you go. Mary is defined by color. 

Next up is Anne Boleyn, Season One.